Schmidt-Rubin FAQ

Q. What is a Schmidt-Reuben?

Well, a Reuben is a sandwich made with Corned Beef, Sauerkraut, Swiss Cheese, and Rye Bread.  Now, "What is a Schmidt-RUBIN?" is a different question entirely.
Q. Okay, okay, what is a Schmidt-Rubin?
Schmidt-Rubin rifles were a series of straight-pull rifles, who's action was designed by Rudolf Schmidt to use the copper-plated bullets perfected by Eduard Rubin.  The first Schmidt-Rubin rifle entered Swiss service in 1889.


Top - 1911 Bolt      Bottom - K31 Bolt

Q. What is a straight-pull action?
The name says it all.  Unlike a traditional bolt-action rifle, where you first lift up on the bolt handle to retract the bolt, with a straight-pull rifle, you simply pull straight back on bolt.  The locking lugs rotate  while the bolt is being pulled back.

Q.  Was Switzerland the only country to ever use a straight-pull rifle?

No, but theirs was arguably the most "successful" design.  The US Navy for a time used the 6mm Lee Rifle, the Canadians used the Ross Rifle, and the Austro-Hungarians used the Steyr M95.  However, they all discarded had their straight-pull actions well before the start of WWII.  The Swiss continued to use the Schmidt-Rubin series until the late 50s.
Q.  Did the Schmidt-Rubins ever see combat?
Not that I know of.  The Swiss have avoided any external armed conflict since the days of Napoleon.  Their neutrality in the affairs of Europe has long been recognized.  Nor have I found any record of any foreign forces using the Schmidt-Rubins,  This may have contributed to their length of service.
Q.  How so?
While the Schmidt-Rubin action is a marvel of Swiss workmanship, it is rather complex.  Various gunwriters question well it would have handles the mud and abuse of a combat situation.  However, the Swiss dismiss such claims.  They point to the fact that the rifle experienced many of the harsh conditions of combat during training exercises, without fail.  It should also be noted that Swiss Rifles were never intended to be used outside of Switzerland, thus would always be close to repair facilities.   
Q.  Have any other countries used Schmidt-Rubins?
Just one.  In the 1930s a special run of 100 K31s were produced for use by the Vatican's Swiss Guards.  The Vatican is in fact an independent nation.  In addition, in 1949 Hämmerli produced 200 K31 for Nicaragua,  however the shipment ended up going to Israel.  Is is unknown whether or not these rifles saw any combat.
Q. So is the Schmidt-Rubin a bad design?
No, certainly not.  The quality of workmanship on a Schmidt-Rubin is nearly target grade.   It is not uncommon to hear of someone shooting MOA groups.
Q. MOA?
Minute Of Angle.  In other words shooting a 1" group at 100 yards, 2" group at 200 yards.
Q. Is that good?
Yes.  Your average Mauser will give 2"-4" groups at 100 yards.  Weatherby, who rifles sell in the $1200 range these days, guarantees a 1.5" group at 100 yards.  My $239 K31 shoots every bit as well as my Weatherby.

K31 Carbine

Q. K31?  Was that the one they adopted in 1889?

No, there have actually been several models of Schmidt-Rubins. The first model, the was 1889.  An improved version of the 1889, was adopted in 1897, and was designated the Model 1896.  In 1898 a short, single shot, version of the 1896 was produced for cadets, hence the name Cadet Rifle.  Two other short barrel version were produced, the 1900 Short Rifle, and the 1905 Calvary Carbine.  In 1913, the Model 1911 rifle was adopted.  The Model 1911 has a strengthened action to allow it to shoot the more powerful GP11 round.  In addition, nearly all of the 1896 series rifles were converted to use the 1911's action.  The Model 1896 Rifles that were converted were re-designated as 1896/11s, while the 1900 Short Rifle and 1905 Carbines were designated 1911 Carbines.  The only way to determine if your 1911 Carbine was initially a 1900 or 1905 is to check the serial number.   At the same time the 1911 Rifle was introduced, shorter barreled 1911 carbines were also newly manufactured..  While rifle production cease in 1918, carbine production continued until 1933.  At which point it was replaced by the much improved K31.  For more on the history of the Schmidt-Rubin series click here.
Q.  How was the K31 improved?
The action was almost completely re-done.  In fact technically, the K31 is not a Schmidt-Rubin, although it is still a straight-pull.  The K31 action was shortened and the locking lugs were moved to the front of the bolt.  This created a stronger action, and allowed the length of the K31 to be the same length as the 1911 carbine, yet still have a 2" longer barrel.  The K31 was adopted in 1933 and stayed in service until 1958.

Picture from Small Arms Profile

Q.  Did they ever make a Schmidt-Rubin machine-gun?

If you mean by "machine-gun" a fully automatic crew served weapon...no.  If however, you are referring to a semi-automatic weapon, the answer is...sort of.  After World War II SIG produced the SK46, a semi-automatic rifle, which strongly resembles a 1911 carbine.  These rifles are quite rare, and likely to command a premium price.
Q.  What is the rarest model Schmidt-Rubin?
Well, both Cadet Rifle and the Calvary Rifles had production runs of 7900 rifles.  However, the rarest Schmidt-Rubins are likely the Special Model 1911 Carbines, of which only 11 were produced.
Q.  So where can I buy a Schmidt-Rubin?
Gun shows, Gun Stores, Mail-Order and Online Vendors.  You on your own regarding the first two.  As for Online Vendors, I keep an Online Vendor Price and Availability Page.  Two other source for K31s are FGS Inc and Simpsons Ltd.  
Q. How much do they cost?
Again, take a look at the Online Vendor Price and Availability Page.  I've seen prices from $79 for shooter grade models to $595 for a beautifully stocked K31.  However prices from $89 to $225 seem to be the norm.

7.5x55 Swiss

Q.  Once I get one, what does it shoot?

Schmidt-Rubin's fire the 7.5x55 Swiss round.  There are some K31 target rifles floating around in .308 and 30-06.  
Q. Where can I find newly ammo?
Graf & Sons will sells loaded 7.5x55 ammunition and brass as availability permits.  Also Wolf Ammunition will begin importing 7.5x55 ammunition.
Q. What about surplus Swiss ammo?
Several vendors, including  Graf & Sons, Dan's Ammo,  and MidwayUSA, carries Swiss Surplus GP11 ammunition.  The ammunition is of very high quality, and very accurate.
Q. How accurate?
I can get around 1" groups on a consistent basis with GP11 ammo.   That's anywhere from 50-100% better than the group sizes I get with INDEP ammo. 

Q.  I reload, does anyone sell brass?

Yes, Norma produces brass.  Midway and other Reloading Suppliers sell it.  It is also expensive.  Between $15-20 per box of 20 depending on the source.

Q. Is GP11 ammunition reloadable.
Well, the short answer is "no".  However, the long answer goes like this: GP11 ammunition is Berdan primed.  It can be reloaded, but takes somewhat more effort than boxer primed brass.  In addition, Berdan primers can be hard to locate. 

Q. Ouch, do I have any other alternatives?

Actually, yes.  You can resize Winchester .284 brass.  However, the neck may be .somewhat shorter, so you may have some difficulty seating the bullet. Others have reported extraction problems when using .284 WIN, but most report no problems at all..
  


Model 1889
photo by Jean Plamondon

Q. Can I fire GP11 or other 7.5x55 rounds in my 1889?
NO!!!  The action on the 1889 is too weak.  The Model 1889 action was designed to handle rounds that generated at most 39,000psi.   GP11 rounds produce 45,500psi.  I cannot say just how much pressure INDEP or Norma ammo generates, so I cannot recommend using either round in an 1889 action.  It safe to fire modern 7.5x55 rounds in 1896/11s, 1911s and K31s.  If you wish to fire your Model 1889, you are going to have to reload your own cartridges.


A Sporterized Model 1889

Q. I have a rifle that looks like the one pictured above, what is it?

You have a sporterized Model 1889.  Quite a few Model 89s were altered to a configuration similar to above in the 50s and/or 60s.  Note: Modern 7.5x55 ammo should not be fired in this rifle.   NOTE: The Swiss never used a carbine version of the Model 1889.  All "short 89s" are civilian conversions.  Some of whom were rechambered to fire .30-30 ammunition.
Q.  What about the K31s you mentioned in .308 and 30-06?  Can I get one of those?
If you can find one, sure.  Just be sure of the source.  Several companies, including Grünig & Elmiger and Hämmerli, used Schmidt type actions to produce sporting rifles in a variety of calibers.  However,  a number of 1911 rifles were converted to the .308 round in the 1960s.  The 7.5x55 cartridge generates approximately 45,000 psi, .308 cartridges can generate well over 50,000 psi.  If someone did a shoddy rechambering job, the results could be tragic.
Q.  So how do Schmidt-Rubins shoot?
I've consistently 1-2" groups at 100 yards.  This is compared to my Finnish M39 and Swedish M96, both of which shoots 2-3" groups for me.  But don't tell anyone, or else everyone will want one.
Q  Why are they so accurate?
If you take off the handguard of a Schmidt-Rubin 1911, you'll notice the barrel never touches the wood of the stock.  This free floating barrel keeps the shots consistent, regardless of wood condition or barrel temperature.  K31's are also specifically manufactured with tight wood to metal fit tolerances to make it a very accurate rifle.
Q. Which one should I get?
All of them.


1911 Carbine
photo by Jean Plamondon

Q. No - I asked which ONE should I get?
Well, unless you reload, and cast your own rounds, I'd say don't buy a 1889 if you want to shoot it.  For most people, I believe the K31 would be a good choice.  It has a longer barrel than the 1911 Carbine, yet is roughly the same length, and has sights graduations starting at 100 meters.  The 1911 rifles sight's graduations beginning at 300.  In short, the K31 is probably the most versatile of the series.  However, your results may vary.
Q. Okay, I've got my Schmidt-Rubin and ammo.  What else do I need?
Ahh, accessory time.  You'll want a sling, stripper clips, ammo pouches, cleaning kit, muzzle cover...
Q.  Hold on, one at a time.  What kind of sling do I need?
K31 and 1911 Carbine slings are different from the earlier slings.  Both the 1911 Carbine and K31 have a cut-out and a post in their buttstock, to which the rear of the sling clips to.  Earlier Schmidt-Rubins used a leather strap, and buttons on both ends.  It should be noted that the Europeans used their slings just to carry their weapons, not as an aiming aid.  The 1911 Rifle sling is too short to wrap around your forearm.  However, the K31 sling is a little longer, and may used in the "American" fashion.
Q.  How do I attach the sling? 
Here is the proper way to attach the K31s (and 1911 Carbine) sling, according to Vaudios, a Swiss National.
"1) Lay the gun flat on a table with the sling removed.
2)Check that the lower swivel has the broken spring blade side out when the swivel lays flat as though the sling was pulling it up.
3)Thread the sling down through the forestock swivel towards the butt, ensuring that the rough side of the leather contacts the wood. Leave about a foot for the next step.
4)Now thread the sling through the belt loop which should lay against the stock.
5)Now loop the slack through the buttstock swivel from the outside with the short, bitter end of the loop hidden by the sling.
6)Select a hole and fit the button to adjust sling length. A tip here; use only the first hole for the short, loop side and the 2nd or 3rd for the long, the sling side. The leather will curl back eventually if you leave too much slack at the short end.

When you are done you should have a sliding loop to the outside at the forestock and a fixed loop to the inside at the buttstock. In other words, loop out at the top, loop in at the bottom or, rough leather facing out at the forestock loop; smooth leather touching wood at the buttstock loop."

Q. Okay, what's a stripper clip?

A stripper clip holds a set of cartridges, which allow for rapid loading of the rifle. For more information, click here.  When you are done, use the BACK button on your browser to return.
Q. What about the rest of the stuff you mentioned?
To look at a cleaning kit, muzzle cap, and ammo pouch, click here.
Q.  Anything else? 
Just a bayonet.  Go to the Online Vendors section of the Bayonets Page for a list of Bayonets available online.  Note: Model 1918 Bayonets as a rule will not fit 96/11s or 1911 Rifles.  They will fit 1911 Carbines and K31s.  
Q. What if something breaks on my rifle, where do I get spare parts.
That depends on the rifle.  The Online Vendors section of the Table of Content lists several vendors.  However, they only list parts for 1911 series rifles.  A couple of us are trying to track down sources for parts for other Schmidt-Rubins.  But, stocks and magazines seem to be the most difficult items to find.
Q.  Where can I find out when my rifle was manufactured?
Bryan Brown maintains an excellent site, which includes the manufacture dates.  You can view Bryan's site by clicking here.
Q.  Where were Schmidt-Rubin manufactured?
The entire series was assembled by Eidgenössiche Waffenbrick in Bern, Switzerland.  However, many of the separate components were manufactured by private companies such as SIG and Hammerli.
Q.  What do all these markings on the guns mean?
Most are inspection marks of one form or another.  The reverse "B" and connected "P" mark means the rifle passed a proof test.  A proof test being where the rifle survived being fired with a round loaded to produce 1/3 greater pressure than normal.  The little swiss crosses on the metal parts are inspection marks, every part on a Schmidt-Rubin was subject to inspection before being issues.  The mark with the cross and an initial below it, in a shield,  is the mark of the inspector.  The initial V was for Major Vogelsang (from 1879-1912), M for Mühlemann (1913-1941), and the H was for Captain Hauri (1943).  Subsequent to that, the Federations Inspection Mark, consisted of a cross next the letter K inside a stylized "W".
Other markings can exist, and may be various of the ones above, unit marking, or personal decorations.  Many 1896/11's have the soldier home Canton (state) or Stadt (city) printed on the stock.   For a listing of other Swiss rifle markings click here.
Q.  Hey, I found a little tag under the buttplate of my K31, what does it mean?

The tags were identification tags, place there by the soldiers who carried the rifles.  The standard format for the tags is:
Top Line: Name (last,first) & year of birth
Middle Line: Unit designation
Bottom Line: Place of Residence

However, many variations exist.  See my K31 Tags Page for more info.

Q.  What about the "P" below the serial number.

The "P" stands for "PRIVAT"  It was stamped on the rifle when it was given to the retiring soldier.

Q. So who are you?
Big L.E.E. a semi-professional web designer and gun collector.
Q. What makes you such an expert?
I'm not.  Never claimed to be.  There are plenty of folks who know a whole lot more about Schmidt-Rubins than I do.  I just am pretty good about retaining what I read and hear.  I'm just passing that information along to you the reader. I'm making web space, and my meager web design skills available to anyone who wishes to contribute their knowledge, pictures or experience.
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