Right view of adjuster screw head.
Left view. Sling is home-made, also not so much elegant.
| A truly elegant overtravel stop for the K31 seems difficult to design - this one makes up for it lack of elegance by being pretty simple. |
Right view of adjuster screw head.
Left view. Sling is home-made, also not so much elegant.
| Remove the magazine and the two action screws, and remove the trigger-guard/floorplate
unit. On the plate's upper surface, make a mark halfway between the
back of the trigger slot and the spotweld
where the back of the trigger guard bow joins the plate, and centered side-to-side. |
Halfway between trigger slot "S" and guard bow
"B", from side.
Same from above: Slot "S", guard bow "B", adjusting screw
hole "X".
| Centerpunch, drill, and tap for an ordinary scope mount screw, usually
a 6x48, requiring a #31 drill bit. The screw needs to be about .350" overall
length. To keep the screw from working loose, put one or more
centerpunch marks on top of the trigger plate, right next to the hole. |
Small centerpunch marks, keeps screw in place.
| We want to deform the threads just enough to keep the screw from turning
freely. Reassemble the rifle, and adjust the screw until the trigger contacts
the screw head just as the sear breaks.
*Because of the odd trigger pivot geometry, it may be possible
for the trigger to move after contacting the overtravel stop. If
you put a lot of pressure on the trigger AFTER the break, the stop acts
like a 3rd
Enjoy! |
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